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  Nouakchott
 

 

Nouakchott (Arabic: نواكشوط, Nawākshūṭ, or انواكشوط, thought to derive from Berber Nawākšūṭ, "place of the winds"[citation needed]) is the capital and by far the largest city of Mauritania. It is one of the largest cities in the Sahara. The city is the administrative and economic centre of Mauritania.

Nouakchott
نواكشوط
Central Nouakchott.
Nouakchott is located in Mauritania
Nouakchott
Map of Mauritania showing Nouakchott
Coordinates: 18°6′N 15°57′WCoordinates: 18°6′N 15°57′W
Country  Mauritania
Capital district Nouakchott
Government
 • Mayor Ahmed Hamza (2007-)
Area
 • Total 1,000 km2 (400 sq mi)
Population (1999)
 • Total 881,000
 • Density 881/km2 (2,280/sq mi)

Contents

History

A tiny fishing town of 200 people[1] until 1958, Nouakchott was little mentioned during pre-colonial and colonial history. It is possible that the Berber Muslim Almoravids were originally from the area. Despite its name, based on a Berber expression meaning "place of the winds",[2] the city was selected as the capital city for its moderate climate and central location within the country.[3] It also sat on one of the most valuable trade routes to West Africa.[2]

Street scene in Nouakchott

Mauritania was part of the larger French colony of French West Africa, and as such had no capital during the colonial period: Saint-Louis, in Senegal, held that position. In 1957, this small port town was chosen to be the capital of the new country, and an ambitious building program was begun to increase its population to 15,000, starting a year later.[4] In 1958, Mauritania was formed as an autonomous republic in the French Community, and in 1960 it became an independent country, with Nouakchott as its capital.

Since independence

The city was attacked in 1976 by the Polisario Front, as part of the Western Sahara independence movement.[5] Between 1988 and 1989, racial tensions between Arabs and blacks escalated. There was discrimination and retaliation by Arabs and blacks.[6] There were also three days of "bread riots" starting January 21, 1995.[6]

The city has had rapid growth, driven by the north African drought since the beginning of the 1970s: many have moved to the city in search of a better life.[2] The population is estimated to have been just under 1,000,000 in 2000, and to have grown to above 2,000,000 as of 2008.[7]

There is currently a large amount of Chinese investment in Mauritania that is focused on the city.[2]

Geography

Nouakchott seen from the Spot Satellite.

Located on the Atlantic coast of the Sahara Desert, it lies on the west coast of Africa, on the Atlantic Ocean. With the exception of Nouakchott Wharf and a deep water port, the coastal strip is mostly left empty and allowed to flood. The coastline includes shifting sandbanks and sandy beaches.[2] There are also areas of quicksand close to the harbour.[8] The city is being covered by the sand dunes advancing from its eastern side (salmon-coloured on image to left), which pose a daily problem.[9] There have been efforts to save particular areas, including work by Jean Meunier.[10] The city is largely flat.[5]

Owing to the rapid build-up, the city is quite spread out, with few tall buildings. Most buildings are one-storey only.[5] It also often acts as an interface between urban Mauritanians and their nomadic fellow citizens.

Nouakchott is built around a large tree-lined street, Avenue Abdel Nasir, which runs northeast through the city centre from the airport. Other major streets are named (in French) for notable Mauritanian or international figures of the 1960s: Avenue Abdel Nasser, Avenue Charles de Gaulle, Avenue Kennedy, and Avenue Lumumba, for example.[11]

The city is broken into numbered arrondissements, sub-divided into alphabetised Îlots. The Cinquième Arrondissement is home to a large shopping area.[11]

Climate

Nouakchott features a hot desert climate (Köppen: BWh) with long hot summers and short warm winters. Because of its location, temperatures are hot for most of the year. However, Nouakchott possesses a mild temperature range compared to other cities in this climate. While average high temperatures are relatively constant at around 32 °C (89.6 °F), average low temperatures can range from 24 °C (75.2 °F) during the summer months to 13 °C (55.4 °F) during the "winter" months. Average low temperatures can be as low as 10 °C (50.0 °F) during winter months in Nouakchott. Average rainfall in the city is 159 millimetres (6.3 in) a year. The bulk of the precipitation typically falls within August, the one month that forms the city’s very brief wet season.

[hide]Climate data for Nouakchott
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 36
(97)
39
(102)
41
(106)
43
(109)
46
(115)
46
(115)
43
(109)
42
(108)
44
(111)
43
(109)
42
(108)
37
(99)
46
(115)
Average high °C (°F) 29
(84)
31
(88)
32
(90)
32
(90)
34
(93)
33
(91)
32
(90)
32
(90)
34
(93)
33
(91)
32
(90)
28
(82)
34
(93)
Average low °C (°F) 14
(57)
15
(59)
17
(63)
18
(64)
21
(70)
23
(73)
23
(73)
24
(75)
24
(75)
22
(72)
18
(64)
13
(55)
19
(66)
Record low °C (°F) 7
(45)
9
(48)
11
(52)
12
(54)
14
(57)
18
(64)
21
(70)
20
(68)
22
(72)
17
(63)
13
(55)
7
(45)
7
(45)
Precipitation mm (inches) 0
(0)
3
(0.12)
0
(0)
0
(0)
0
(0)
3
(0.12)
13
(0.51)
104
(4.09)
23
(0.91)
10
(0.39)
3
(0.12)
0
(0)
159
(6.26)
Source: BBC Weather [12]

Government

Aerial view of Nouakchott

The town was first divided into districts (moughataa) in 1973. First it was divided into four. From 1986, the city has been split into nine districts.[13]

  • Arafat
  • Dar Naim
  • El Mina
  • Ksar
  • Riad
  • Sebkha
  • Tevragh-Zeina
  • Teyarett
  • Toujounine

Demographics

Market in Nouakchott.

For comparison, its population was only 20,000 in 1969 and 150,000 in 1980. Part of the difficulty in estimating the city's population is that part of it is literally nomadic, setting up tents in suitable locations, then packing up when the need strikes. Some estimates put the 2008 population at over 2 million; more conservative estimates put that number at 800,000, itself estimated to be close to one-third of the country's population.[7]

Slum resettlement

In 2009, the government of Mauritania announced that it would begin a process of clearing the slum on the outskirts of Nouakchott. 24,000 families would eventually be relocated to planned housing within the city. The process is scheduled to begin with the relocation of 9,000 families from the outskirts into the poor Arafat department neighbourhood of "Kosovo", popularly named for its high crime rate and poor services. The government plans to begin moving families in June 2009 despite concerns from aid agencies that needed infrastructure cannot be put in place in the receiving neighbourhood.[14]

Infrastructure and administration

Street in Nouakchott

Nouakchott has a deep-sea port, opened in 1986, primarily used for imports. Annually, imports account for around 96.4% of traffic at the port. It handles 500,000[2]–800,000[1] tonnes of cargo a year. Recently, China has agreed to invest US$282 million in the port, aiming to extend the main quay, the deepwater Quay of Friendship, by 500 m (1,640.42 ft).[2] A 1,100 kilometres (680 mi) road connects the city with Néma via Boutilimit and Kiffa.[2] The city also features an international airport, Nouakchott International Airport.[15] Road transport is problematic, the main problem being overcrowded roads. Fuel for cars is also hard to obtain in Nouakchott.[16]

An agreement was signed on August 5, 2007 between Mauritania, Sudan, and China to build a $630m Mauritania Railway linking the port of Nouakchott and phosphate mines at Bofal, about 430 km away. The line goes near the border with Senegal.

As of 2000, it is the home to over 30 international or diplomatic institutions.[1]

Economy

Salt, cement, insecticides, rugs, carpets, embroidery, and craft products are produced in Nouakchott, with the port also exporting copper.[17] As of 2000, there are over 30 small or middle-sized factories in the city.[1] Administration and financial enterprises are also important.[5] The airline Mauritania Airways has its head office in the city.[18] When Air Mauritanie existed, its head office was in the city.[19]

Fresh water

Although the rocks beneath the city contained a vast reservoir of fresh water, known as the Trarza Lake, fresh water is running out, owing to the large growth of the city.[20] Engineers have warned it could run out by 2054, since it is not rain-fed, and is therefore non-renewable. The problem is particularly bad in the sandy shanty towns where the majority of the population lives.[20]

Many people already have to buy water, which is expensive compared with the average wage in the city.[20]

Education

The city is home to the University of Nouakchott,[21] which is the only university in Mauritania and was opened in 1981. Approximately 8000 students study there, and it has a considerable impact on the city, according to some[who?]. Other higher education facilities include the National School of Administration, and the National Institute of Advanced Islamic Studies. There are many primary and secondary schools, among the most prominent are the American International School of Nouakchott[22] and the Lycée Français Théodore Monod school.[23]

Culture and religion

Fish market at the Nouakchott beach.

Attractions in Nouakchott include Nouakchott Museum, several markets including Nouakchott Silver Market, and the beaches.[11] One beach is devoted to fishing boats where various species of fish can be bought fresh. The city also hosts the National Library and National Archives. Nouakchott is the principal location in Africa for world distribution of native Saharan meteorites.

There is a mosque donated by Saudi Arabia in the city centre, and a Moroccan mosque further south.[7] Although Islam is the state religion in Mauritania, Nouakchott includes the Cathedral of St. Joseph, a Catholic cathedral. It is home to the Roman Catholic Diocese of Nouakchott, founded in 1965.[24]

International relations

Twin towns - Sister cities

Nouakchott is twinned with:

See also

 


 

 Visiting Nouakchott ?
Get in...

... By plane

Nouakchott International Airport (IATA: NKC ICAO: GQNN) is the base for Mauritania Airlines International which flies to Paris, Dakar, Abidjan and Nouadhibou. It also receives flights from Algiers on Air Algérie [1] and from Paris on Air France[2]. Other connections include Casablanca, Bamako, Tunis and Las Palmas.

...By road

From/to Nouadhibou (470 km, ca. 6 hours): the most comfortable option, a Mercedes taking 4 passengers, costs from 4000 ougiya. Sept-places are also available. It is also possible to arrange direct transport from Dakhla in Western Sahara. Ask in Hotel Sahara. The duration of the trip depends mostly on border formalities.

From/to Rosso: cars to Rosso (border with Senegal) depart from Garage Rosso south of town (taxi from the centre - ca. 500 oug). The journey takes approx. 3 hours and costs about 3000 oug in a Mercedes.

Get around

Taxis around town cost up to 200 oug, to the fishing port west of town (Port de Peche) - 300 oug.

See

Five kilometers west from central Nouakchott are beaches, the fishing wharf and two seaside hotels.

  • Head to the bustling fishing wharf 'port de peche' for a firsthand look at Mauritania's artisanal fishing industry. At evenings one can see teams of fishermen bring in the day's catch on brightly painted sea-canoes. The catch is sold on the sport and loaded onto donkey carts or ancient Renault 12's to be resold in town.

The Nouakchottois go to the beaches on weekend evenings (especially in the hot season). Swimming in the sea at Nouakchott can be dangerous due to the treacherous and strong current.

Do

  • Franco-Mauritanian Cultural Center: movies, concerts, exhibits etc.
  • Stade Olympique: run laps at the stade Olympique, or watch a soccer match.

Fishing: surf-casting is possible from the beaches near Nouakchott. Bring your own equipment. Some basic fishing supplies can be bought from Lebanese-owned shops in Nouakchott. Travel in groups only for security reasons.

Buy

Traditional Mauritanian handicrafts are available in hotels, at the museum, and in shops catering to tourists at the top of Avenue Kennedy. Silver jewelery - such as bracelets and earrings - make popular souvenirs. Rugs made of camel wool can also be purchased. Items from Mauritania's fast-disappearing nomadic lifestyle - camel saddles and wooden chests - can be purchased.

Unfortunately many items for sale in Nouakchott are of shoddy workmanship. Be prepared for some determined tracking down to find a quality piece. Dakar, Senegal is also a good place to purchase jewelery from Moorish silversmiths. There is a small collection of artisans selling quality good on Autoroute Rosso, away from the airport, but it is hard to find. Sometimes referred to as the Aritsian's Market or the Zoo. Most prices given to you can usually be haggled down to about a third of the given price, so don't be afraid to walk away!

  • Markets: the Marche Capitale and Marche Sixieme are the most interesting for purchasing local specialities and souvenirs. The Camel Market on the outskirts of town on the road to Boutilimit makes an interesting visit.

Eat

There is a decent variety of restaurants in Nouakchott with plates from 1000 to 3500 UM. Most restaurants in the capital offer pretty much the same menu - simple pizzas, hamburgers, sandwiches, and salads. Nicer places, such as Plan B, New Rest or Iman, will have steaks, brochettes, seafood and even curry!

 

  • There is a string of restaurants on the road from the Stade Olympique to the French Embassy. Good ones include Pizza Lina, Cafe Liban, and Le Petit Cafe.
  • The Sahara Cafe, on the other side of the stadium, is also a good place for pizza, sandwiches or Lebanese, and has some of the best reasonably-priced food in town. Come by late at night for some an excellent evening of hooka and hummus! Open late.
  • Nearby is also The Sun House, which depending on availability, will also so have alcohol if you're a westerner.
  • On Ave du Palais des Congres there's Chickandy, which is halal Fried Chicken as well as Pizza Italia, one of the better pizza shops in town.
  • Near Marche Capitale, there is a street of sandwich shops that offer near-identical menus, the best of which is the Prince (which taxi drivers know by name).
  • New-Rest, a guest house hidden behind a wall and unmarked near the stadium, has great ambiance and allows you to get away from the crowds. It has a well lit pool and tasty Nims and spaghetti.

If you wish to cook, there are many large markets to be found, including Deja-Vu, located next to Ta-ta on Du Gaulle, which specializes in American products.

Drink

Mauritania is a dry country, but alcohol can still be found if you know where to look! Many of the French and Spanish owned clubs and restaurants will have some whiskey or beer available, depending on their supply, and will run from 2000-3000 oug a drink. If you're checking in the United States embassy, ask the Marines on duty (please be subtle about it) if they're having a party! You'll have a great time in a safe place. Same can be said at just about every embassy, as the expat community is very close and will spend the weekends together.

Monotel - Ran by a Spanish Father and Son, this local gets busy at around two in the morning and regularly plays hosts to Senegalese DJs. Decent restaurant and bar by day, is a fairly reliable source for whiskey. Naf's Cafe - Located behind Friso's will also have beer, whisky rum and vodka. Cafe in the American Embassy will also have drinks during the day.

If you're feeling bold, simply start asking around if anyone knows where to get drinks. Several people will sell it here and there, smuggled from Senegal, but don't expect anything top shelf. A small bottle should run you around 6,000-10,000 per.

Update 23/03/2013 : No more alcohol in clubs or restaurants... it becomes very hard to find !

Sleep

  • The Novotel (Tfeila) and Hotel Mercure set the standard for nice places to stay, but you will pay European prices.
  • Hotel Halima, just behind the Novotel, is slightly less expensive.
  • In central Nouakchott, the Hotel Houda and Atlas are not bad options. Other mid-range hotels include Park Hotel and Amane on Ave Nasser and Hotel Mouna north of the Novotel/Tfeila.
  • Auberge Menata, [3]. Owner speaks English. Help with renting a car and a guide. High reputation with former guests. Dorms with shared facilities from 3000 ougiya per person, tent from 1500 ougiya.

It should be noted that since this was written the Auberge Menata has changed ownership and some are reporting a rapid decline in standards, particularly security.[4]

  • Auberge JMC, behind the Novotel, - rooms start from 10000 oug. WiFi available. It's not signposted - look for flowers on the front fence.

 

  • Residence Zahra, opposite Hotel Halima and the Russian embassy, has clean and spacious rooms with ac, bathrooms, TV and wireless internet from 12000 oug.
  • There is also a hotel out at the beach with "hut" rooms and a big dining room overlooking the water.

There are also a couple of camping places not far away.

Stay Safe

Like anywhere else, try to stay in groups after dark. You might occasionally run into some rude folks, but by and large, Mauritanians are a very nice people! Don't be surprised to be offered a glass of tea in a shop.

Cope

Embassies & Consulates

  • Gr-flag.png Greece, Quartier des Ambassades, B.P. 4156, Nouakchott, Mauritanie, (222) 529-0127 (, fax: (222)525-9899). 
  • Us-flag.png United States, US Embassy B.P. 222, Nouakchott., (222) 4525-2660/2663, 4525-1141/45, or 4525-3038 (ext. 5441) (fax: (222) 4525-1592), [5].http://mauritania.usembassy.gov/



 
   
 
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